Monday, 25 July 2016

Violin Woes



The Early Days

The scratchy banshee wail of the violin in my untrained hands still echo in my ears, dragging me back into that gloomy, carpeted back-room, back to good old Miss Yeoh and her monosyllabic admonitions. And pain – oh the pain shooting down my arms and tingling my fingers as I struggled with that unwieldy bow. My first violin classes, all those years ago – exist in my memories with a vividness that only traumatic events have. Today, I can look back at that time with a nostalgic smile, but that wasn’t always the case.

It was in Malaysia, where I spent a lot of my childhood; in the late nineties – a decidedly different era. The world seemed simpler, and hardships in life amounted to unfair quantities of homework, and having to wake up at six in the morning for school. One day, my parents suggested that I learn to play an instrument. I had no clue what learning an instrument would entail, but it was an alluring idea, and I said yes.

I can’t remember how I decided on the violin, but once the instrument was decided, all I needed to do was buy the violin and sign up for lessons. My dad drove me to an after-school activity centre near my home, which conducted drawing and music classes on weekends.

During the registration, I was introduced to my tutor, one Miss Yeoh, whose skin seemed to be made of that hard white plastic that they make switchboards with. I can’t remember her face, except the steely remoteness of her eyes  There was something almost robotic about her, and it gave me a bad feeling. However, despite my misgivings, I decided to go ahead with it. More than anything, it was the excitement I had felt when holding the violin in my hands, that got me into it.

My first violin was a thing of joy. I enjoyed rubbing the yellow stuff they called rosin onto the horsehair of my bow – it was curious how a bit of dried pine tree sap could suddenly coax such a strident sound out of the instrument - it seemed like magic. But my enthusiasm was soon shattered. In my first few classes, Miss Yeoh, taciturn, grumpy and decidedly unpleasant, would tolerate about ten minutes of the banshee wailing, before going down for her first of several cups of tea. She’d return about half an hour later, smelling of cigarettes, and say “whai you no pway lah!!” and then stalk off again, leaving me alone in that gloomy, high-ceilinged back-room. She always wore grey, and the lack of colour added to the brooding melancholy of the place.

I don’t think Miss Yeoh considered it important to explain to me what exactly I was supposed to be aiming for while practicing, or why it was even important to practice. My class usually went like this: She would give me a series of curt instructions on preparing my violin (that's right, violins need to be prepared before they can be played). Then, after telling me to repeatedly play the A note until it at least sounded like it came out an instrument, she would simply walk out.



 For a good Music Teacher

Now before I go on, I must say that this isn’t an indictment against learning music as a child at all. In fact, I really think it’s important for every kid to learn music, at least a little bit.  But I also believe that it is a teacher’s responsibility to first introduce a young student to the joys of listening to and creating music. This goes without saying, but it’s strange how rare it is to find a truly inspiring music teacher – maybe I was just unfortunate in this regard.

The rigours of practice and all the aching limbs can seem pointless unless you have a clear idea of what you can expect at the end of it. Maybe if Miss Yeoh spent the first few classes playing records of famous classical violinists, or her favourite pieces – just making me listen, I might have grown to appreciate the numbing pain in my knuckles.

But I hardly knew what was going on. Why did I have to deliberately inflict pain on myself, endlessly dragging that godforsaken bow over those strings? How was this better and more meaningful than playing with my digimon? Who was going to even appreciate it if I did manage to get a sound out it? It didn’t make sense to my eight year old, music-illiterate mind.

On odd days, Miss Yeoh wouldn’t show up at all – and I would have to sit in a Chinese drawing class where the teacher would teach us to draw ducks. There I learnt to say “thank you teacher” in Cantonese, which is probably the most useful thing I’ve learnt in that place. After a couple of months, in which time the only discernible improvement in skills was that my A note now sounded like a frog croaking, I decided that Miss Yeoh’s reign of terror would have to end.
       
The next morning I had to remain innocuous, and tried my best to blend in with the living room furniture. The plan was to escape the attention of my parents by pretending to be a potted plant, hoping that maybe it might slip their mind that their son had a violin class to be taken to. But my ruse did not last long. It soon became apparent to discerning members of the household that a little squatting boy wasn’t likely to be part of the living room furnishing. I was picked up bodily, and violin case was thrust in my hands. As I was being ushered out of the room to wear my shoes I started to increasingly panic. At the doorway I did the only thing I could – I starting bawling at the top of my voice.

It had the desired effect. Parents halted mid-push, and I remember I made a scene. Slowly I related to them the tyranny of the insufferable Miss Yeoh, and between bawls and whimpers, why I thought she was determined to mutilate me by forcing me to play until my arm fell off.
I was accordingly consoled, and promised that I would never again be dragged to that godforsaken place. But the disappointment in my parents’ faces was evident. I’m sure they had imagined a little Yehudi Menuhin in their midst one day, and now it didn't seem like that was going to happen.



 Another go
      
It wasn’t the last time that I tried to learn the violin though. Three years later, when I’d moved back to India, I joined classes again, this time for the Carnatic violin. I would like to say that I made a valiant effort, but it was evident from the start that this was a disaster waiting to happen.

 My new teacher taught at a nearby school. He was a fossil of some kind, kept alive with frequent cups of coffee and copious amounts of grey holy ash smeared on his forehead. I began to learn that grey was a violin teacher’s favourite colour. We sat on the floor in a circle around him, as he rocked and creaked like a boat, exhorting us to play, play, play.  

He played the violin well, but while he could make his violin talk with lucidity, it seemed that he himself had once stuffed a large sponge into his mouth, and forgotten it there. Incoherent teachers are something that all kids eventually get used to, but there was another problem. My grey old guru was a purist from the old school, and had never taught someone left-handed before. He didn’t seem to think that left-handedness was possible, and often looked at me as if I was an abomination of nature. “There is only one way to hold a violin,” he would tell me pointedly, “and you’re doing it the other way around. You won’t learn anything this way.” That was a great source of encouragement.

If I remember right, that class ended three months later, with the him angrily complaining that ‘I had no hope with any instrument’, since I kept using the wrong hand. I made no further attempts with the blasted piece of polished wood, and charitably ‘handed down’ my violin to my young cousin. It was the right decision – he has really learnt to play on that violin, and has become a bit of a virtuoso now.
I never touched the instrument again after that. Looking back, maybe I could have tried a bit harder. There’s a twinge of regret now and then. But the thing is, my two failed attempts at trying to learn the violin in some curious way sparked my interest in music. Today, music is a big part of my life, and at the end of the day, I’m thankful for that.

Saturday, 9 July 2016

Revisiting Dharavi!

Two years ago, I had first arrived in Dharavi, Mumbai’s famous slum, looking for a story – and I had to find a good one, if I was ever going to start research for my thesis. Luckily, like the rest of Mumbai, Dharavi is chockfull of interesting stories, and in the little bylanes around Chamda Bazaar, in the heart of Dharavi, I discovered the story of a small Tamil community – the people of Ganesh Mandir. As an architecture student, I studied various aspects of the settlement – morphology, character of the houses and nature of spaces. But much more than the settlement’s physicality, it was its people I found fascinating – people with a rich, if conflicted history, who narrated stories about their daily lives and memories, and all of these I recorded in the form of narratives in my thesis.

Now, this thesis had long since been accepted and I had graduated from Architecture school, and as is typical of any recently graduated architect, I didn’t give my thesis any more attention. However, about a month ago, quite impulsively I decided to pay Dharavi a visit. I had often wondered how Ganesh Mandir and its people were doing. What were the folks I had interviewed up to now? How were they leading their lives – what remained the same and what had changed? Now as a responsible researcher, you might say, I should’ve probably gone a lot sooner then I did – but then an undergraduate thesis barely necessitates all that – it is enough that you spend six years of your life to earn a single degree, than for you to go on post-thesis field visits. Unless of course you suddenly realize that you’re free and in the city, and you might as well. I'm glad to say that a decision taken so arbitrarily, in the end proved to be immensely fruitful. 

24th April, 2016

It is a hot and humid afternoon. To call it humid is an understatement, because in Mumbai, the air is literally wet, and you can’t walk an inch without getting completely drenched. I miss my stop at Mahim and have to take a return train from Dadar. These things happen, and besides the evening was mine and I had plenty of time to kill.

As I climb up the steel staircase of the crossing over the tracks, onto the bridge that leads into Dharavi, the tops of the tallest structures become visible – ramshackle and profuse as ever. I descend into Dharavi, and see more familiar sights. The same butcher shop, the same cheap cinema and ‘video game’ parlour. I had walked this route daily over a two-month period in the summer of 2014. Adding to the chaos and visual noise was a new hulking structure – an incomplete sky bridge of sorts, extending over the road, with no access and ending abruptly on both ends. It seemed to have been abandoned mid-construction, soon to become a part of the scenery in this insane and chaotic place.

Past the busy intersection (which is always a busy battle between the endless stream of vehicles on the road and the pedestrians of Dharavi), Dharavi Main Road looks in good shape – recently paved, fairly tidy, and not as crowded as usual. However, Dharavi Cross, that branches off the Main Road and leads to Ganesh Mandir, is familiar – muddy, unpaved and with refuse along the street, trampled down by hundreds of pedestrians. All of these bring back old memories and sensations. As I catch of sight of Ganesh Mandir, I get a curious feeling of familiarity and expectation – like some kind of homecoming.

Dharavi Cross road, where Ganesh Mandir is located - in the heart of Dharavi

Ganesh Mandir looks the same as before, though the courtyard in front is strewn with construction materials. As always, work has been going on, but I only get an inkling of how much as I turn into the gully, and suddenly notice that all the single story houses that I had documented in my thesis had now been converted to two story apartments, with metal sheet roofing and tiled front entrances! The homes looked well built, and the insides of the houses well lit and scrupulously clean. I remembered the dingy interiors of the old houses – tiny rooms with mangalore tiles on the roof, and think that the residents are decidedly better off now. How quickly things change!


A view of the houses within Ganesh Mandir

It’s impossible to walk around unnoticed in Ganesh Mandir, and pretty soon wary eyes looked out from windows and doorways to see what I was up to. All of a sudden, an old woman chatting on a front porch recognizes me, “Why, you’re the fellow who came and drew all our houses, aren’t you? Have you finished your work?” I tell her I have, and am glad to know that people still remember me. But it was the kids who’d recognized me first, which was surprising. Soon they crowd around me, and among them is tiny Sam – “Remember me uncle? I was doing homework with Sibi, and then I took you to show my house!” I’m amazed at his memory.



Older temporary structures have been rebuilt in many cases.

   I suppose a stranger coming around to make drawings of your house must be an unusual experience, especially here in Dharavi. I still remember some old ladies wondering what it was I found so interesting. “It’s just a house after all,” old Balammal had quipped, as I measured and drew her loft. I can’t see her around today, but there are a few others whose houses I’ve drawn, so I showed them the thesis and the drawings that I had made of their houses. Many, like Kalavathy, still can’t figure out what I’d done, but are fascinated by the final product – the boys spend a long time examining every photograph and identifying places around them that had changed. “Some of the houses in this book don’t exist anymore!” I tell Reuben. He replies, quite perceptively, “But it is good that you recorded all this – as a memory. I don’t even think Ganesh Mandir will exist in a few years!” 


The neighbourhood boys inspecting my thesis in detail!

The changes have not just been physical. A number of old tenants have vacated and new families have moved in. “Is he a Hindi speaking fellow or a Tamilian?” asks one aunty suspiciously as I show her neighbours my book. She refuses to come near until she is sure that I can understand Tamil. I realize soon, however, that I've caused a bit of a commotion. People have spread the word to their neighbours, and soon a group of women have gathered around, all trying to find their house inside the book. I can’t quite describe how I feel, but I'm glad that I took the decision to come here.

"I don't understand it, but it's very nice!" says Malathi.


As the sun begins to set, the book has finally passed through many hands, and I decide to get on with the goodbyes. “I still don’t understand why you went to the trouble of drawing all this,” says Sowmya, Malathi’s daughter who’d just finished school. “College submission” I reply simply, though inside I know it was much more than that. “Well, whatever it was, thank you. I love my home, you know!” and a fetching grin lights up her face. Just for that, I muse as I make way back towards the railway bridge – just that had made my two years writing an undergraduate thesis worthwhile.




Some of my drawings of the houses in Ganesh Mandir.


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