Monday, 13 June 2016

The Neelam Lunch Home and Bar

This is a bit of an experiment. I thought I’d take a little break from writing the city encounters and put some of my other writing up. In this case, it’s a little idea I had that I thought I would try out. I have been reading a lot of P.G Wodehouse off late, and I’m frankly enamoured by his incredible prose and warm humour. One evening, with his words sloshing about in my head, I sat down and dashed out a quick paragraph inspired by his style. I later expanded that into this story. Now as I said, I’ve taken inspiration from Wodehouse’s writing, but I’m not really trying to write like him, because that is impossible, and pointless. He is inimitable, and a recognised master of the English language. I think it would be a better tribute to him, to take inspiration from his style, and see where I can go with it, rather than attempt to wholeheartedly copy. The story is mostly fictional, but based on some real events. With that said, let’s dive into it!

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“He asked for it,” said Ryan flatly, aiming for, and wildly missing a stray can on the street. “He asked for it, and boy did he get it!” The comment seemed to incense Gopi, an earnest sort of fellow who was too tall for his own good. “Shattap you nitwit! We nearly got killed!” he bellowed from somewhere above us. Now honestly I feel he was exaggerating a bit – Gopi is prone to hyperbole, which is ironic because it is only through hyperbole that he can be adequately described. He resembles an oversized flag post, and knows a thing or two about life threatening situations, having spent much of his adult life dodging telephone wires and all manner of airborne objects. Presently he sidestepped to give way to a flock of migratory birds, before continuing, “Antagonized the audience, that’s what! What the hell were you thinking?”
    I sensed an imminent conflagration, and slyly pulled out from between them – and just in time. “I don’t know if it’s the rarefied air you’re forced to breathe up there that’s knocked you silly, or if you’re a genuine hare-brain!” Ryan retorted, and followed it up with the most colourful sort of invective. Shortly a scuffle broke out between these two otherwise placid individuals. “Don’t pull his hair, Goptard,” admonished Kumar at some point, but neither of us made any move to stop them, which indicated the dark mood we were in.

I feel, at this juncture, that I should perhaps bring the reader up to speed on the events that had occurred earlier that evening, and some introductions are also in order. The company consisted of Kumar the Slayer and myself, besides Ryan and Gopi – aspiring stand up comedians all of us, though you wouldn’t have guessed it if you’d spotted our little retinue on the street that evening. To be fair, we had suffered a traumatic episode and needed nothing more than a stiff drink. But before we get to that, let me sum up the incidents leading up to the unfortunate confrontation between my two mates:

At round about 8:00 pm, a stand up Open Mic Night kicked off in a dingy little establishment in Andheri. As you know, Open Mic nights can hardly work without an audience, which is a bummer since Open Mic nights also hardly work for the audience. As so often happens, the chums who’d come to perform that evening far outnumbered the audience members, and it was this desperate situation that drove our host to take an unprecedented step. He proposed to marshal together an impromptu audience from the streets, with the promise of complimentary drinks. “Just like they do in New York! It can’t fail!” the host assured us sweatily. An injudicious proposal under any circumstances, for a stand up show, it was bound to prove disastrous.

Anyhow, to cut the story short, a redoubtable bunch of characters were whisked off the good streets of Mumbai, quickly assembled into something resembling an audience, and proceedings were inaugurated without delay. For a time, things went without incident, apart from the fact that not many of the audience members seemed to have a clue about stand up. The trouble really started during Ryan’s set. The event thus far had been a low-key affair, not surprisingly, and Ryan the man was belting out some of his more risqué stuff. The better-lubricated audience members cheered him on lustily, but halfway through one of his jokes, an angry roar suddenly emanated from somewhere, drowning out the hoots and catcalls.
I believe the joke in question was a rather off-colour one that concerned a sex education teacher of Bengali origin that Ryan claimed to have been taught by. This teacher, he had explained – frequently aroused laughter amongst her pupils, with her peculiar pronunciation of a word relating to the female reproductive organ. A fairly innocuous joke, you might think, and indeed the joke was well received by all – with the exception of one Mr. Chatterjee, in the third row.

The man hadn’t asked to be here, to be fair, and he seemed chagrined at having to tolerate these base remarks made against his people. One could tell from his manner and flushed cheeks that he had taken due advantage of the host’s hospitality, and it seemed to be fuelling his passions. Ryan wasn’t the type to be cowed down by such aggressive display however. All he needed was a name, to then begin disparaging the good man on ethnic terms, which, while entertaining, is wholly unacceptable behaviour for a comic. To give the fellow credit, he could really string together a word or two, and seemed to have much in-depth knowledge on the idiosyncrasies of Bengali culture. Mr. Chatterjee, in response, was of the opinion that we could take our views on Bengalis and their pronunciations, and stick it up our collective nether regions. He then proceeded to make a nuisance of himself amongst the front-row audience, ploughing through people with his hands in the air, knocking some chairs over, and finishing with a stellar impression of King Kong atop the tower. On the whole, it was a memorable performance, and looking back, perhaps the only one that night worthy of hearty applause. Needless to say, the evening’s festivities had to be tragically cut short. Mutiny had broken out in the ranks, and the few of us with good sense made a dash for the exit – dragging Ryan along with us.

One might have concluded from this episode that stand-up comedy should be recognised as a life threatening occupation. The business of evoking laughter is always one fraught with uncertainty, with the result that members of the clan frequently take to the drink, in order to keep the spirits up, even in the most dubious of circumstances. Undoubtedly, it was this longing thirst that finally motivated Kumar and I to tear Ryan and Gopi apart, and set forth towards our destination – The Neelam Lunch Home and Bar, a fabled City institution and final roost of many a lonely comic who has been afflicted by tragedy. Here, I was sure, we could soothe our sensitive souls and forget our troubles. “Do they really say bhojina though?” asked Kumar somewhere along the way, quite unnecessarily. “Honestly I thought it was a bit-” I didn’t let him finish.

We shortly arrived at the ’Neelam’, as it is affectionately called. While immensely popular, the place also bears the unfortunate distinction of being the rattiest hole-in-the-wall about town. Now I feel critics have been rather harsh in their reviews of this establishment. It’s appearance can certainly described as ‘ratty’ – much of the upholstery and crumbling wallpaper gives the appearance of having been nibbled at by the rodents in question, and it is otherwise in an advanced state of decay – but there are few other places that can claim to serve it’s customers with the same enthusiasm and verve as ‘Neelam Lunch Home and Bar’. The bar staff here prides itself in efficient, speedy, if somewhat risky, service.

You see, at the Neelam, when you, having taken your seat and wiped the table, proceed to bark out your order, you will shortly be confronted by a waiter who, uttering a terrible war cry, will hurl the desired elixir toward you with great gusto. It is a cherished tradition here, and the practice has been strictly adhered to through the ages. Of course, it was my first time here, and my first impression was that a highly choreographed bar fight was under way. “Watch your step man, and duck if you need to,” Ryan told me helpfully. Sound advice. Gopi’s head scraped the ceiling as he walked in, and he cursed quietly, but apart from that the strange spectacle I was witnessing was hardly remarked upon. It was all perfectly normal behaviour, it seemed – all this chucking bottles about (not to mention some spectacular catching that would put our best fielders to shame).

At our table, I was clearly the only one unfamiliar with this ritual, because I was the only one who unfailingly jumped every time a war cry sounded in the vicinity. The beers that evening were being merrily lobbed around, only to be gulped down with equal gusto by the loyal custom that the place had built up over the years. “Feels like I’m in the middle of a Frisbee match!” exclaimed Kumar, as he narrowly dodged a Kingfisher Strong whizzing past his left ear. I agreed that to properly enjoy a drink here, one required not only a marked tolerance for maroon velvet, but also a keen awareness of one’s surroundings combined with a certain agility of frame – not unlike a gazelle on the lookout for predators.
The more experienced patrons navigated this environment with an airy nonchalance that belied their advanced state of inebriation. “That large taxi driver type over there is an old-timer. Notice how he barely even cocks his head – and out flashes a limb just in time to snag a passing Bolt 10,000! That, my friend, is the mark of experience,” opined Gopi, academic as usual, as he himself wet his throat with that robust beverage so preferred by large taxi driver types.
“Goptard, you don’t catch like you used to, but you’re still the master of the artful dodge, if I may say so,” said Kumar affably. Kumar’s affability runs deep, and the epithet ‘Slayer’, is more a reference to his joke-making abilities than his . Kumar couldn’t slay a mosquito if it sat on his nose. “It needs to eat too,” he would say, and would wish the creature bon appetit.
“If you’re talking about artfully dodging common sense, then yes, Gopi’s right up there with the greats,” declared Ryan. Gopi refused to take the bait however, focussing instead on removing bits of crumbling plaster from his hair where it had grazed the ceiling. “The place is falling apart,” was all he had to say. There was no need to carry on with the incivilities – we had made it to the fountain spring of good cheer after all, and all around us the life-restoring waters flowed freely.
Or flew freely, I should say – because the air was thick with beers, brandy quarters, and the occasional Old Monk large – which, if you don’t know, is the solid, dependable workhorse of the Indian liquor market, never failing in its duty to squeeze the last drops of sobriety out of even the most steadfast heavy-weights. I had one in front of me right now, with coke, and a spritz of lemon so I could pretend to be classy. But I couldn’t give the legendary drink the attention it deserved, as it was diverted at the moment by the sight of an oh-too-familiar figure that had just crawled through the door and which, pirouetting expertly over a passing brandy and soda, made its way toward a table diagonally opposite ours.

His expression was contorted in the manner of one who had recently been subjected to medieval torture. The scowl did nothing to soothe his already startling profile, and he looked, in short, perfectly foul. Not without reason of course, for Mr. Chatterjee had had a rough evening. Clearly the evening’s exertions had taken their toll, and it seemed like he needed some refuelling. I kicked Gopi on the shins, and was suddenly covered in a cloud of plaster dust. “What?” he asked, massaging his head, but stopped when he caught sight of the danger, who had sat down and ordered his drink. Now, I am a man of some compassion, and couldn’t ne more eager about extending the olive branch of peace and letting the bygones be bygones and whatnot. The man had undoubtedly been wronged by the rash and uncalled for words of the evening’s entertainer, notwithstanding his belligerent behaviour. My sympathies were clear.

But I also am a realist, knowing danger when I see it, and any prudent man would propose that under the circumstances one would do well to tuck in the shoulders and look sharp. This is exactly what I was endeavouring to do, when a graceless yowl emanated from Ryan by my side. The chap is possessed of many sterling qualities, but tact isn’t one of them. It seemed he had also spotted the large predator in our midst – and had decided that the best course of action would be to approach the matter head on. You see, in the time that I had taken three sips from my rum and coke, the old boy had sat back and thrown in four large ones, and the potion had filled him with a fighting spirit. He was already standing, glass raised. “Why, if isn’t good Mr. Cha-Chatterjee!” The hound’s whipped in our direction, and on sighting Ryan Mr. C’s severely strained nerves nearly snapped. His eyes, I promise you, pulsated gently. “Fancy a bich of tatter…A bit of chatter, Mr. Chatterjee? Eh, how ‘bout it? For old times s-sake! Chatter on Chatterjee! Ha ha heey-chk!” Ryan stopped and swayed for a bit.

Mr. Chatterjee had been visibly aroused, and as Ryan tottered round to the front of the table, he banged his table and rose unsteadily to his feet. Ryan was oblivious to the imminent threat, and carried on blithely. “I would like to propose a toast to the m-magnificent Mr. Chatterjee! A m-man, in the loosest definition, but a-a man nonetheless, who has so graciously --- uff…Let go, Slayer!” Kumar by this time had his alarm bells go off. In an attempt to nip the situation in the bud, he had wholeheartedly thrown himself on Ryan. Adrenaline had kicked me clean off my chair, and swung me around like a hunted animal desperate to spy an escape route. Gopi, somehow had barely flinched through the proceedings, and now he calmly ordered another Bolt. I suppose he had accepted his fate, and was bracing himself for his imminent demise. I admire this sort of stoic recklessness, which I’ve been told springs from a deep well of pluck and purpose that I oftentimes lack.

And I certainly lacked it at that moment. I sorely wished to contribute positively to the situation, but all I managed to do was cluck like a chicken. Mr. Chatterjee demonstrated now that his King Kong act wasn’t a one off thing – he had a definite flair for simian imitation. Currently he was portraying some species of rhesus macaque, and a very flustered one at that, rapidly advancing in our direction – and that moment ladies and gentlemen, is the first time I have contemplated such a senseless demise – Death by Ape, if you will.

The events that followed, I should say, are a bit fudgy in my mind. The salient facts are established, but the details remain obscure. In my defence, the mental faculties were rather strained by the ordeal – the minute I set my sighs on the big man, they threw in the towel and called it a day. But I will try my best to recreate the scenario by piecing together what I heard of the fiasco later. Mr.Chatterjee had reached our table, stuck his hand into the flailing mass of limbs that thrashed about the floor, and successfully extricated a struggling Ryan from the mess. He now held him in front, surveying his catch gleefully, as Kumar squirmed at his feet. Ryan thrashed like a wildcat, to no avail, and I sensed that the end was near. At this moment of reckoning, several things happened at once. A loud war cry sounded behind me. I remember bending back to see a Bolt 10,000 headed our way. Gopi’s order, I suddenly realized. I had by this point, slid off my seat and was halfway under the table. Looking up, I saw Gopi looked grimly at his passing beer, and at the last possible moment, he ducked, which isn’t easy for him to do. Next I heard a dull thud, followed by a crash, and that was that.

When I crawled out, 120 kilograms of man, with strong ape undertones, lay sprawled out on the remains of our table. The waiter’s aim had been unerring. The beer had caught old Chatterjee in the jaw, and the blow had knocked him unconscious. Again the ensuing events are shrouded in a bit of fog, but I recall some running – I think our objective was to settle the accounts, and rid ourselves of the establishment before the large creature came to. There was no further need for talking.
Today, what we are left with after the incident is a chastised Ryan, and a shard of glass from the broken bottle that accomplished the deed. It is a little token that for me represents the transience of life, and the extraordinary uncertainties we live with everyday. As for the little disagreement between my two mates, much has been resolved. Only Ryan balks at having to call Gopi his saviour. He is not totally ungrateful to Gopi, of course, but insists that credit must also be given to the Neelam staff’s blatant disregard for customer safety, which in this case saved a life rather than took one. I’m with Ryan on this one, and even Gopi can’t disagree to that.

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A bit about P.G Wodehouse:

Wodehouse’s style is singular and inimitable. Those of you who are fans of his will know what I’m talking about, but to the rest, who haven’t read him yet, let me tell you that you’re missing out. P.G Wodehouse is considered to be one of the great comic writers of the 20th century. He created many memorable characters, such as Psmith, Mr Mulliner, and of course the incomparable Jeeves and Wooster – who were immortalized in the 90s television series starring Hugh Laurie and Stephen Fry. If you’re not much of a reader, I suggest that you at least check out the series, which I think is available on Youtube. Here you’ll find some of the finest examples of that dry, delightful humour that the British are known for – in the zany plots, improbable situations and sparkling dialogue. But nothing really beats reading the books on a lazy Saturday afternoon, and letting your thoughts drift into the warm, wacky world that he created.


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